Carve an On-the-Go Carving Desk

on-the-go wooden carving desk

Materials

• Wood, such as plywood, 1/2″ (1.3cm) thick: 24″ x 24″ (61cm x 61cm)

• Wood, such as lauan plywood, 1/8″ (3mm) thick: optional for bottom, cut the exact size, 12″ x 18″ (30.5cm x 45.7cm)

• Altoids® mints tin

• Hinges: 2 each 1 1/2″ (38mm)

• Clasp

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

Tools

• Drill with bits: 1/8″ (3mm) dia. twist; 1 3/8″ (35mm) dia. Forstner bit

• Chisel

• Hammer

• Screwdriver

• Clamps





Selecting the Wood

by Tom Noller

I made my on-the-go carving desk from regular 1/2″ (13mm)-thick plywood, but you could use Baltic birch for a nicer look. The project can be made from a single 24″ by 24″ (610mm by 610mm) sheet of plywood, a piece of lauan plywood, and an Altoids® mints tin. The only critical dimensions are the inside length, width, and height of the space for the can. If you use a different can, add 1/8″ (3mm) to all of the cans dimensions to provide enough room to remove it easily.


Because we’re using plywood and the bottom covers the edges of the sides, the joints are pretty strong. But this project is made to be used and abused, so you may consider reinforcing the joints with brads or screws.

on-the-go wooden carving desk

Getting Started

Mark and cut the sides. It looks nicer if the visible grain runs in the long direction. Rip all of the sides at the same time to ensure they are all the same width

Assembling the Box


Step 1: Glue and clamp the sides together to make the box frame. Leave the internal pieces out for now. Assemble the sides on a flat surface to ensure they are even on the bottom. Measure diagonally from corner to corner to make sure the frame is square.

Step 2: Get the long partition. Cut the shortest partition piece and an additional one to use as a spacer. Place them at the front and back of the frame to locate the position for the longer internal partition. Glue and clamp the longer partition in place.

Step 3: Get the short partition. Place the shorter partition in place and check for clearance using the mint tin, and then glue and clamp the short partition in place.

Step 4: Determine and mark the center for the top hole. Drill a 1/8″ (3mm) pilot hole on the mark. Drill about halfway through at the hole with a 1 3/8″ (35mm)-diameter Forstner bit. Turn the top over and use the pilot hole as a guide to drill the rest of the way through with the Forstner bit. This will reduce tear-out on both sides of the top.

Step 5: Attach the hinges. Cut slots for the hinges so the top can lay flat. Use a chisel. Drill pilot holes for the screws, if desired. Make sure the hole in the top lines up with the opening for the mint tin. Screw the hinges to the top and the back frame.

Step 6: Use the frame as a guide to verify the size of the bottom piece. Mark and cut the bottom. Glue and clamp it in place, and allow the glue to dry. Round the sharp outside corners of the top, bottom, and frame with sandpaper.

Step 7: Install the clasp in the center of the front of the frame. I used glue on the screw because it is going into the edge of the top, but do not get any glue on the clasp. Apply your favorite finish or leave bare

The key to a flawlessly executed carving? Using the correct tool. 


Discover the power behind each small yet mighty carving tool alongside award-winning carver Everett Ellenwood and his Carving Tool Reference Guide. Not only will you learn about the anatomy of each tool, spanning across: 

  • chisels 
  • gouges 
  • knives 
  • veiners

This in-depth guide offers a comprehensive overview of the seemingly infinite tools and their respective components and parts. 


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